which then made me think of...

i ran into a woman i know only slightly the other day.
she was happily humming a tune while waiting on
a long line at the pharmacy.

it made me smile, which then made me think of
other things that make me smile like...

swedish fish
ice cube trays that make ice shaped like dentures
my brand new vintage juicer
chunky monkey
barcelona, the city
the wallpaper at barcelona, the restaurant
my mini cat, cooper
my new mini cooper, cat.
pink leopard fur clogs
a cup of earl grey tea
verlyn klinkenborg
cerignola olives, especially the really meaty chartreuse colored ones
inventing stuff
funky flannel sheets
dotted drinking glasses
evan barreto and matilda


here are some foodie things that made me smile this week.

Smoked Salmon Spring Rolls with Homemade Ponzu Sauce
Makes 50 or so hors d's.

For the Spring Rolls:
1 lb smoked salmon, small diced
1/2 lb shiitakes, thinly sliced
1 pkg mai fun (rice vermicelli), softened and rough chopped
3 carrots, peeled and shredded
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1 pkg wonton wrappers

For the filling: Saute the shiitakes in a bit of butter or olive oil. Season with S.P. When cool, chop. Combine all of the ingredients except the wrappers in a medium sized bowl.

Note: I did not season this mixture with any asian flavorings: soy, sesame, ginger, etc for two reasons: I wanted the powerful flavors of the ingredients to stand alone (the smokiness of the salmon is incredible; it tastes like bacon but isn't so even fish eating vegetarians can enjoy it) and I thought that the ponzu sauce would take care of the rest.

Another note: One of the greatest kitchen tools I own is my mother's Moulinex, a french machine originally marketed, in the 60's, as a meat grinder slash salad maker. I use it to shred carrots into perfect thin wispies of carrot flesh. It somehow makes them taste sweeter. I swear. I realize that I am extremely fortunate to own such a thing and that most others can not claim the same good fortune. Without a Mouli, I can not guarantee your results will be as outstanding as were mine.

To Wrap: Have a small bowl of water standing by. Place wonton wrapper on work board in diamond position (point facing you). Place some of the filling in middle of wrapper. Using your finger, brush some water along the top edges of the wrapper. Fold bottom point over filling and roll, as a cigar. Do not fold in the left and right points. Those ends will stay open in the rolling process, but will magically fold and enclose the filling during the frying process.

To cook: Heat oil in deep pot to 350 degrees or in a tabletop fryer as per the manufacturers instructions. Drop spring rolls in batches of 4 or 5 into the hot oil and fry until golden, about a minute or two. (You will know if oil is the proper temperature if the roll pops up to the surface shortly after being dropped.) Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with a ramekin of ponzu sauce for dipping.

Note: It is best to fry the spring rolls shortly after rolling. If you do, the roll will remain stick like and the side points will nicely curl, enclosing the filling. If you wait, and fry later, the wrapper takes on a bit of moisture from the filling which causes it to fry strangely, into gnarly knobby twisted sticks...which are actually kind of cool, presentation wise. Up to you.

Homemade Ponzu:
1/2 cup Mirin
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
1 cup soy
juice and zest of 2 lemons

Combine ingredients and allow to shmeld for a bit. Good to go.


Little Swiss Chard and Ricotta Cannelloni
Sauced with Garlic Cream
Topped with Frizzled Ham Slivers
Slurped From Spoons
Makes 5 dozen-ish hors d's

1 lb rigatoni, with a diameter large enough to fit the tip of a pastry bag, gently cooked to just al dente and cooled

1/2 stick butter
4-5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bunch of swiss chard, chiffonade
1 lb full fat, whole milk ricotta cheese
1 cup or so grated parmesan
S.P.


For the filling: Sweat the garlic in butter in large saute pan. Add chard. Cover to allow chard to steam a bit. Cook until chard is wilted, about 5 minutes. Cool. Rough chop the swiss chard into small, ultimately pipeable pieces. Combine cooked cooled chard with the ricotta and parmesan. Adjust seasonings.

To fill the pasta: Just cover the bottom of a baking dish with cream and set aside. Fill a tipless pastry bag with ricotta chard mixture. Pipe filling into each end of each rigatoni, covering the opposite end of the noodle with the finger of your choice to prevent filling from continuing its forward journey. Place filled rigatoni in prepped baking dish. Continue until you either run out of unbroken pasta or filling.

Roasted Garlic Cream
Makes a few cups or so.

6-8 cloves garlic, roasted
2 shallots, small diced
1 cup white wine
2 cups heavy cream
S.P.

To roast garlic: The easiest way to roast garlic is to gently simmer peeled garlic cloves, submerged in oil, on the stove top over a low flame until soft and golden. You can/should do big batches. It keeps really well in the fridge for future uses.

For the sauce: Combine the garlic, shallots, wine and cream in a sauce pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and let simmer for 15 minutes or so. Mixture will reduce a bit.
Puree using a wand or food processor. Adjust the seasoning.

Frizzled Ham:
1/4 lb sliced baked ham, chiffonade

To frizzle: Deep fry chiffonade ham or saute in butter/oil in saute pan until crispy.


To serve: Heat the little cannelloni, covered, in a 375 degree oven until hot. Gently transfer them to individual slurping spoons. Pour some of the garlic cream over each noodle. Top with frizzled ham. Serve.

Lots of little steps, but so worth it.

Variability Factor: Very. Fillings can be changed. We've done butternut squash/pumpkin in the wintry months. Sauces can be changed. The blue cheese cream from the sweet potato gnocchi blog would work nicely with the squash version.
I am certain I could come up with a great variation using.................................CHORIZO.
Maybe if you ask nicely.

Note: I derive lots, and I mean lots, of foodie inspiration from the man I teach with. I've been doing this food thing for a long, long time. Before I started working with him a few years ago, the whole food thing was starting to feel a little stale.
No longer.
This cannelloni recipe is based upon a B. Neumeyer invention.
This blog is dedicated to him with boundless gratitude for his boundless passion for everything food and the stuff we use to make it.
Thanks, Bri.

Eat.

rainy days and big pink bowls of popcorn

i love popcorn.

unfortunately, she hasn't always loved me back.
recently, she broke one of my favorite wisdom teeth
and she once nearly caused a house fire when a babysitter
decided to pop her in a metal mixing bowl.

and yet, i find it hard not to forgive her those little
indiscretions when she otherwise provides me
with so much pleasure.

when i was a little kid,
jiffy pop was our friday night tv treat.
who wasn't thrilled by that magical ever
expanding silver turban of popcorn goodness.

as i got older, i started to pop my own,
extra butter and salt, please.

these days, i sometimes flavor the popcorn,
usually by seasoning the melted butter.

i've used currys, seasoned salts, fennel and caraway seeds,
chili powder, tabasco and grated parmesan for savory
versions and cinnamon, ginger, citrus zest, brown sugar,
maple syrup, cocoa, instant espresso, nuts, dried fruit,
toasted coconut (good with curry, too)
or some combination of all of those things for sweet takes.

this past friday night, my friend julia generously
sprinkled the gigantic pink bowl of air popped popcorn
we were sharing with smoked paprika.

yum.

Hand Popped Popcorn
Makes a Big Shareable (or not) Pink (or not) Bowl

2-3 Tbl Oil (Can be Olive, Veg, Corn, Canola, Peanut)
1/2 cup popcorn (Orville Redenbacher reigns supreme)
At least 1/2 a stick of butter!
Sea Salt

To pop the corn: Add oil and popcorn to a heavy bottomed largish pot. I use my mom's old Le Creuset. Cover and heat over medium heat, shaking periodically until kernels begin to pop. Continue to cook, shaking pot frequently, until kernels stop popping. This should take about 3 minutes. If possible, leave the pot lid slightly ajar during the popping process to allow some of the steam to escape for crunchier popcorn. And make sure to use potholders!

To flavor: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the spices, flavorings, seasonings of your heart and belly's desires. Drizzle the melted butter over popped corn, season with salt. If you are using garnishes like toasted coconut, nuts, etc., add them after you toss the popcorn with butter.

Eat.

Note: I have not intentionally neglected to mention microwave popcorn, quite possibly the best reason for the invention of the microwave as far as i can tell (only weeks ago i might have said it was the only reason, but that was before i discovered i can cook and eat a sweet potato in 5 minutes thanks to that miraculous machine). It's just that we never had one, until I inherited my grandfather's last fall. What a legacy. Thanks, Gramps.

a picture is worth a thousand words, period.

which would really have saved me the trouble of inventing
yet another clever little story to go along with this week's
recipes.

unfortunately, i forgot to take a picture of dinner last night
and even if i had, i haven't a clue how to get it to
magically appear here.

so i guess you will have to use your imagination.
if you need visuals, go to foodporndaily.com
it is, truly.


A Roast Chicken in Every Oven
Feeds a family of 5, with the understanding that the kids will eat the drumsticks, the wings and share the white meat with mom; dad gets the thighs because that's what he gets, period.

1 nice sized bird (3 - 4 lbs)
1 large spanish onion, sliced
a few or more cloves of garlic, slivered
1/2 lb chorizo, chopped
zest and juice of 1 lemon (save the squeezed lemons to stuff into bird cavity)
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
1/4 cup e.v.o.o.
splash chicken stock, white wine, H2O
S.P.

To prep the bird: Preheat the oven to 450. Clean the bird by removing giblets, extra fat, other undesirables. Give it a quick bath. Pat dry.

For the mirepoix nest: Lay sliced onions, slivered garlic and chopped chorizo in bottom of roasting pan. Place bird onto mirepoix nest.

For the marinade: Mix zest and juice, thyme, e.v.o.o., S.P. and rub over entire bird.
Don't forget to stuff the squeezed lemon carcasses into the bird.

Pop the bird into the oven and let sear for about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 and continue to roast the bird for about an hour or so.
Note: After the bird has been roasting a bit, you may want to deglaze the roasting pan mirepoix nest with a little of the stock, wine, H2O found in the recipe. This prevents the nest from charring and helps bolster the sauce.

You will know when the bird is done when the read on a meat thermometer, plunged into the meatiest part of the thigh, is 165 degrees. Also, the juices streaming from a gently poked, properly cooked bird should run clear.

Serve the bird with the roasted nest. I didn't do anything with the pan juices. We went with them as is, au naturel.

Seriously, a roasted chicken is one of the best things anyone can ever imagine. It smells soooo good while it's cooking, and tastes so damned good while you're eating it.

And, once again, the variations are endless. You can chili rub, curry rub, jerk rub. You can use oranges, limes, apple cider, WINE. How about mustard, herbs, soy? AND, you can stuff stuff under the skin, too, like pesto, olive tapenade, roasted garlic, sage leaves, prosciutto. Oh, won't someone stop me, please.

Now, while a roast chicken is the epitome of culinary perfection...you musn't eat it alone. It likes company. Last night, it was joined by sweet potato gnocchi with blue cheese cream and simply sauteed broccoli rabe with red pepper chili flakes and garlic.
Yikes, was that good. Strangely, I forgot the bread warming in the oven, but that didn't stop everyone from somehow sopping up every last bit of the pleasantly mingled sauces on our plates. There was even some stealthy plate licking going on.

Always a good sign.

Note 2: On the off chance that there is chicken left, you must make soup, period.

Side Story: My friend Terese Fiore claims that her family of like a million, or 9 or something, used to eat 1 roast chicken for three meals, at least. Her mother, a magician, would carve the bird night one, make soup for night two, and i can't imagine what else she could possibly have sucked out of that thing but Trace swears there was a third meal in that poor bird, and I, by golly, I want to believe her.

Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Blue Cheese Cream
Makes a whole lot.

3 cups mashed sweet potatoes, about 2 lbs or so
1 1/2 cups whole milk ricotta, drained
1 cup grated parmesan
a palmful of brown sugar
S.P.
2+ cups flour

I am starting with a couple of notes:
One. This is an uncharacteristically labor intensive recipe for me. You won't find many of these in my repertoire, period.

Two. Recently, I discovered that sweet potatoes cook in
only 5 minutes in a microwave. That discovery was completely
liberating. I did find, though, that the more potatoes you try to nuke
at once, the longer it takes, but minimally so. Still, a great thing.

Three. I eat sweet potatoes regularly now.

To make the gnocchi dough: Cook the sweet potatoes in the nuke until soft, about 5 minutes or so. Scoop the pulp into a bowl and mash it with a fork until relatively smooth and lump free. Add the ricotta. Blend completely. Add the parmesan and the brown sugar. Season with S.P. Now, begin to add the flour, a cup at a time, until a soft dough forms. You want to try not to overmix the dough. Turn dough onto a floured board. Cut into 6 pieces. Working with one at a time, roll into ropes about 20 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. Cut into 1 inch pieces and roll across the tines of a fork to mark them. Place on lightly floured baking sheet, untouching, until ready to cook.

Blue Cheese Sauce
Makes 3 cups or so.

1/4 large spanish onion, small diced (shallots would work here as well)
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 stick butter
1 cup white wine
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups grated gorgonzola
S.P.

To make the sauce: Saute the onion and garlic in butter until soft. Add wine and reduce to 1/4 cup. Add the heavy cream. Bring to a boil. Whisk in the gorg until smooth. Season with S.P. to taste.

To cook the gnocchi: Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot. Working in small batches, boil the gnocchi for between 3 and 4 minutes. You can do this ahead and reheat later, or you can cook them to order. If using right away, transfer the gnocchi to a serving bowl and drizzle hot sauce over them. If reheating, allow to cool on a baking sheet and reheat either in boiling water or sauce.


Sauteed Broccoli Rabe
1 bunch feeds 4 nicely.

1 bunch broccoli rabe, bottoms trimmed
a splash of olive oil
a couple of cloves of garlic, chopped
a pinch of red pepper flakes
S.P.

Starting with another note: I never really liked broccoli rabe. It was always too bitter. That is, until I discovered the secret: a simple blanching. That's all it takes to completely remove the bitterness. Yay.

To make the broccoli rabe: Blanch the broccoli rabe in a large pot of boiling salted water for no more than 3 minutes. Cool under cold running water or in an ice bath.
Drain completely.

To cook the broccoli rabe: Heat olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add garlic and pepper flakes. Saute for a minute or until garlic begins to sizzle. Add broccoli rabe and heat through completely. Season to taste.


Aside: My friend Sarah celebrated her birthday on Wednesday and no birthday is complete without 5 bottles of cava and a cake, deliriously enjoyed by 5 women at 5 in the afternoon. The cake, inspired by a recipe I saw in this month's Bon Appetit, was really yummy.

Buttermilk Spice Cake with Mango Something and Shlag
Makes one 8 inch.
Served many slivers. We're all dieting.

Note: I didn't have any buttermilk, so I substituted sour cream.
AND, I DO NOT LIKE nutmeg, ever, nor allspice and the like so...
changed up the spices. Mmm. Mmm. Mmm.

1 stick butter
3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs
3/4 cup buttermilk/sour cream
1 vanilla bean, scraped
zest of 1/2 a lime
1 cup + 1 T flour
1/4 cup corn starch
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/8 tsp each cinnamon, ground ginger, 5 spice powder,
black pepper, fennel seed


To make the batter: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8 inch cake pan and lay a parchment circle in bottom. Cream the butter and the sugar, scraping the sides periodically, until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, until well blended. Add sour cream, vanilla bean seeds and lime zest. Beat until smooth. Add all of the dry ingredients, pulsing your mixer on and off to prevent spice cloud. Transfer to prepped pan and bake, until golden, about 30 minutes or so or until skewer comes out clean. Let cool.

Mango Something
Makes 2 cups

Note: I am calling it mango stuff because I don't know what else to call it. It resembles a salsa but has no onion or cilantro. It isn't a compote or a chutney, which are cooked.
It's not really a coulis, because it's not pureed. Does anyone know what IT IS?


2 ripe mangos, brunoise
zest and juice of 1/2 a lime
1 vanilla bean, scraped
Sea salt
Cracked Pepper

To make the mango stuff: Warning: another slightly fussy recipe in that brunoise, the smallest of the dice cuts, at about 1/8", cubed, is fussy. Not for the arthritic or homicidal.
At any rate, toss all of the ingredients in a bowl and let marinate for an hour or so.

Shlag
Yield: Depends

Heavy Cream
10x sugar

Okay. Shlag is just really softly whipped cream. C'est tout.

To serve: Dust the cooled cake with powdered sugar. Cut into slivers (that way, you can have seconds). Drape a dollop of shlag on the cake along with a healthy spoonful of the mango something.


Eat.

(Who's making those yummy sounds?)

for yucks and aesthetics

many years ago, the exact number of which i refuse to reveal,

my favorite song was a little beatles ditty called I'm Only Sleeping.

i was hoping to embed the song here, but alas, Beatles music is

not only not available to steal on line (sorry mom), it can't even be bought!

the refrain goes something like this:

please don't wake me,

no don't shake me,

leave me where i am,

i'm only sleeping.

ahh. sweet memories.

at any rate, i still love to sleep,

but what i love almost as much is what comes after.

breakfast.

in the dinosaur days, breakfast was a cup of hot tea with honey and a Marlboro, brought to me, in bed, by my friend paddington,

with the song playing in the background.

i’ve long since ditched the cigs.

the song, until this morning, was a distant memory.

there's been no breakfast in bed since my boys served me cheerio’s

for mother’s day, 1995, hours after they had poured the milk.

sweet things.

but, a cup of tea (earl grey now) is still the way I love to start my day.

and on occasion, these things replace the nicotine.

French Omelet

Makes one for one or one for one to share, if they like.

Ingredients:

2 or 3 eggs

some butter

Sea salt

stuff to stuff your omelet

Note: Ideally, you want to use a non stick pan. It just helps, a lot.

For the Omelet: Crack eggs in a small bowl. Whisk with a fork until blended. Add a small splash of water and some salt to the eggs. (I don't like pepper in or on my eggs...sorry mom...but feel free to ruin them with a grind or two now, if you must)

Melt some butter in the pan over medium heat. When the butter begins to just barely sizzle, add the eggs. Let the eggs set a moment...they will start to cook along the edges. At this point, using a rubber spatula, start to push the cooked edges toward the center of the pan, tilting the pan slightly at the same time to allow the runny uncooked eggs to replace the cooked egg edges. Continue this pushing/tilting technique until most of the egg mixture is cooked. Now, add your prepared filling. To finish, roll the omelet out of pan and onto a warm plate by holding the pan atilt over the plate, folding the top third of the omelet over the middle third using your spatula, and continuing by rolling the folded two thirds over the last bit of omelet while simultaneously sliding it onto the plate. Once omelet is safely on the plate, give it a final rub on it's ridge with a stick of butter and perhaps, a dusting of leftover shredded cheese for yucks and aesthetics. It sounds tricky, and actually, it is tricky to roll an omelet. It takes a lot of practice, but the thing to remember is the rolling/folding process should ultimately become one fluid motion. And remember this, too...all in, a perfect omelet takes just a few minutes. If you have slaved over the omelet over the stove for over 5 minutes, throw it out and start again.

Note: As with so many recipes, there are countless filling variations. A classic french omelet is filled simply with shredded gruyere and a mixture of fresh herbs, but you should feel free to be as adventurous as your fridge and pantry allow.

One more note: "French" omelets are ALWAYS slightly runny on the inside (the residual heat of the omelet will continue to cook the eggs without OVERcooking them), rolled/tri-folded and NEVER BROWN!!!!

Sweet and Savory Breakfast Bread Puddings

Makes a large ceramic dish full, enough for at least 10.

Ingredients:

2 loaves of dense, chewy "real" bread (for savory or sweet) or challah (for sweet only), cubed

1 qt heavy cream

1/2 qt half and half

12 eggs

1 stick butter, melted

(1-2 cups sugar plus 2 T vanilla if sweet or dessert bread pudding)

S.P.

Make the bread pudding: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush ovenproof ceramic dish with some of the melted butter. Whisk together the custard ingredients in large bowl. Toss with the bread cubes, butter and garnish. Mix well. Press into ceramic dish, wrap first with saran (keeps in the moisture), then cover with tin foil. Bake for about an hour, removing saran and tin foil for the last 10 or 15 minutes of cook time. Serve hot.

Some Tried and True Savory Garnish Options:

One.

1 lb rosemary ham, julienned

2 cups gruyere, grated

1 cup gorg, crumbled

a couple of sprigs worth of fresh rosemary, chopped.

Two.

8 oz goat cheese

2 cups provolone, grated

2 cups artichoke hearts, diced

1/2 cup sundried tomatoes, julienne

1 cup bacon, prosciutto or pancetta, diced

a couple of twigs of fresh thyme.

(blanched broccoli rabe would be nice in here, too or instead of something)

Three.

1 lb chorizo, casing removed, crumbled

1 cup poblano peppers, roasted and diced

1 cup red onion, roasted

1/4 c roasted garlic, mashed

3 cups manchego, grated

Sweet Garnish Options:

Four.

Zest of 2 lemons

1 1/2 cup brown sugar

2 T vanilla

2 pints of fresh raspberries

challah

Add the zest, brown sugar and vanilla to the egg cream mixture. Let the custard sit for a while...even overnight...to allow the flavors to develop. Toss with challah cubes. Gently fold in raspberries last thing. Bake in buttered dish, covered with saran and tin foil, for about an hour. Dust sweet bread pudding with powdered sugar. Serve hot.

Five.

3 cups fresh peaches, large diced

1 pt fresh blueberries

some peach nectar

a dash of cinnamon

Please feel free to caramelize the peaches before tossing with bread and custard by sauteing them in some butter and brown sugar in the name of oxidation prevention.

Six.

Lots of Chocolate stuff: chips, chunks of brownies, godiva liquer, etc.

Seven.

Caramelized Bananas (see peaches above)

Pecans

Note: These variations may be too sweet for breakfast/brunch. You might be better off saving them for dessert. If you do, you must serve them with this:

Ridiculously Easy Caramel Sauce

Makes about a cup

1 stick butter

1 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup heavy cream

Make the sauce: Melt the butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in brown sugar and cream until well blended. Done. Use warm.

Refrigerate whatever is left...yeah, right.

Note: You may add some booze (think rum, kaluah, bourbon, etc) or reduced nectars (peach, mango) to make the sauce even more ridiculous.

Note: The savory custard base and fillings can easily be used for quiche as well.

Store bought (sorry mom) pie shells make the whole quiche thing remarkably easy.

But just in case you are a pie shell purist:

Pie Doe

Makes 2 Nine inch

3 1/3 cups flour

3T sugar

1/4 lb butter

4 1/2 oz shortening

1/2 cup water.

Make crust: Mix flour and sugar in mixing bowl. Cut in butter and shortening: you can do this in an electric mixer, cuisinart or by hand with your fingers, a pastry cutter, two knives (least favorite of all). Add all of the water all at once. Bring dough together, kneading (if by hand) slightly. Do not overwork! Divide the dough. Roll to about a 1/4 inch thick. (I like to roll my pie dough between two pieces of saran. Works like a dream...don't need to use as much flour and easy as pie to transfer to the pie plate.)

Crimp the edges as you like.

Note: For quiche and other pies requiring a bake period, no need to prebake.

Scones

Makes about a dozen, depending on your scoop size.

2 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 T baking powder

1/2 t salt (may be eliminated, if using salted butter)

1 stick butter, cut into pieces

1 cup buttermilk

Garnish: i sound like a broken record, but anything goes.

i like: candied ginger peach, dried cranberry pecan, apricot almond.

dried fruits work best, fresh fruits alter the moisture of the dough and can be tricky.

add as much as you like...less if you like more biscuit to your scone, more if you like more treats.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a mixer, combine the dry stuff. Next, cut in butter pieces. You may need to pulse your mixer on and off to prevent a flour shower. When butter is nicely cut in...mixture should be soft and there should be no palpable chunks of butter in the mix...add the garnish. THEN, fold the buttermilk in by hand until dough just comes together, gathering loose crumbs and tucking them in. Scoop scones onto a parchment lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and bake for approximately 20 minutes or until golden. Scones will sound slightly hollow when bottom is tapped. It's subtle, so move the scone towards your ear...which leaves them conveniently close to your mouth to finish the job, but blow first. For those not so inclined, you'll just have to wait.

Eat.

small shrimp is not an oxymoron

it's just how we feel sometimes.

i am feeling small this morning,
so thought i would write about shrimp.

i just returned from a week in south carolina.
there is something about the shrimp down there.
it's swept from local waters and is always sweet and crisp,
seemingly no matter how it is prepared, how long it is cooked or
how long it sits under a heat lamp.

(whoops...sorry very famous restaurant on bay street
in Charleston.)

i use local shrimp here, too.
it comes from costco.

here is what i do with it, often or on occasion.


Baked Shrimp in Chipotle Sauce
Makes enough for 4 to pick on before dinner.
Can be doubled, tripled, quadrupled, quintupled, etc.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 lbs U15 shrimp, deveined, shell on (or off)
1/4 cup butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup white wine
1 or 2 chipotles, minced plus 3 T of adobo sauce from can
a couple of dashes of worchestershire
a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme, picked
1 T or so brown sugar
S.P.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Make the Sauce: Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sweat for a minute...do not brown. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for a few minutes to allow flavors to meld. Sauce should thicken just a bit.

Make the Shrimp: Fold prepped shrimp in with sauce and pour into an ovenproof dish. Bake for approximately 11 to 14 minutes, stirring shrimp once to ensure they cook evenly. Roll up your sleeves and dig in.

Have at the ready a crusty sour doe for sauce sopping, a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, preferably from New Zealand and a large roll of paper towels to keep the mess manageable.



Dirty Shrimp with Remoulade Sauce
Makes 2 lbs of shrimp

Ingredients:

2 lbs U15 shrimp, deveined, shell on (or off)

The Rub:
1 stick butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 medium onion, diced
1/4 cup chili powder
1 T cumin
1 t cinnamon
1 t dry thyme
1/4 cup paprika
1/8 cup balsamic vinegar
S.P.

The Sauce:
1/2 cup each mayo and sour cream
1/2 cup pickles, small dice
2 T capers, chopped
zest of 1 and juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
1 T dijon
1 shallot, very small dice
dash or two of tabasco
S.P.

For the Sauce: Combine all ingredients. Taste and adjust seasoning. Let mellow.

For the Shrimp: Cook the shrimp in boiling salted water until just cooked and pink, approximately 2 minutes. Drain and cool under running water. Drain again. Set aside.

For the Rub: Sweat the onion and garlic in butter in a small saute pan. Add the spices and cook on low heat to release their fragrances. Finally, whisk in the balsamic vinegar. Let cool.

To Finish: Here's the thing. These shrimp can be eaten warm or cold. If you decide to eat them warm, toss the just cooked, uncooled but drained shrimp with the just cooked rub and serve. If you prefer to eat them cold/room temp, toss the cooled shrimp with the cooled rub. You can serve then, or refrigerate until some other time to allow the flavors to develop...but please note: the rub, made with butter, can congeal a bit if refrigerated so you may want to allow some time for refrigerated shrimp to come back to room temp before serving.

Another Note: Don't forget the sauce and the PAPER TOWELS!

Shell On Rationale: You may have noticed that I recommend leaving the shell on the shrimp for the two recipes above. The reason is simple. The sauce oozes underneath the shell and in the fins of the tail and bathes the shrimp in absolute deliciousness. These shrimp are succulent which means, in this case, you must suck them to achieve the utmost pleasure. The shell off option is for those uncomfortable with sucking. Fair enough. It's not for everyone.




Lemon Fennel Shrimp Curls with Tarragon Cream
Makes about 60 curls

Ingredients:

Shrimp Mixture:
2 lbs U15 shrimp, peeled and deveined
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 c extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, zested first, then thinly sliced, removing all seeds
4 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped
1 T fennel seed, lightly crushed
1/4 t red pepper flakes
S.P.

Sauce Mixture:
1/2 c each sour cream and mayo
zest and juice of 1 lemon
2-3 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped
S.P.


For the shrimp: Slice the shrimp as if you were butterflying them open, but cut all the way through. (Your knife blade will be parallel to the cutting board!) Poach the shrimp in boiling, salted, lemon water. Total cook time is barely a minute. The shrimp will curl and turn pink. Drain and cool under cold running water. Drain again. Towel dry to remove as much moisture as possible. Meantime, sweat the garlic for just a minute in a couple of tablespoons of the EVOO to take the bite out of the raw garlic. Let cool. Add all ingredients together in a bowl and allow shrimp to marinate for many hours, preferably overnight. As always, taste and adjust seasoning.

Make the sauce: Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth. Can (should?!) be done the day before for optimal flavor meldage.

Serve shrimp in a mound on a pretty platter garnished simply with a tulip, chive flowers, some nasturtium or any other beautiful flower on hand. Have the sauce on the side for dipping. For those with a fear of touching food with their fingers, offer toothpicks or small cocktail plates and forks, but only as a last resort. Watch them sweat first. It's fun.

Note: We serve this regularly on our catering gigs. If we have any shrimp leftover, which is usually quite rare, it becomes shrimp salad. Pulse the shrimp curls in the cuisinart until chunky and add leftover tarragon sauce. Eat by heaping spoons full or on a sammy. Whichever way...yum.

Eat.

Final notes on the shrimp thing:

First: I am sure these recipes would be equally successful with the shrimp from the southern waters. I just don't have the experience myself. When I visit the south, my sister in law Mimi does all of the cooking. She's whiz bang at it too. Maybe if I ask nicely, she will share her Shrimp and Grits with Tasso Gravy recipe. But be warned...if she does, it means 1000 extra miles on the treadmill. Guaranteed.

Lastly: I have other shrimp recipes I'd like to share, but life is calling (actually, a Ganache Coated Donut at Dottie's Diner is calling) so I've got to jump. Maybe a midweek blog is in our future. NO promises. Still have to deal with Taco Boy.

dear taco boy

pickles, pepperoni and olives

today is my nephew charlie's 5th birthday.
unfortunately, i missed his birthday party.
ach. mother nature and her wintry charm.

i've been thinking a lot about charlie
on this momentous day and decided today's
recipe should include three of his favorite foods,
aside from candy, of course.

pickles, pepperoni and olives.

one recipe instantly comes to mind which includes all three, sort of.
the muffuletta sammy.
here it is, with a few twists and alterations, to honor my favorite 5 year old.

coincidentally, the super bowl will be played today.
the muffuletta sammy is a quintessential football party eat.

Muffuletta
Feeds 4 pot bellied creatures or 40 who only care for a sliver

Ingredients:

The Olive Salad Part:
1 1/2 cups Pitted Green OLIVES, chopped
1/2 cup Pitted Kalamata OLIVES, chopped
1 cup Cauliflower Florets, blanched
1 cup Half Sour PICKLES, small diced
1/2 cup Home Roasted Red Peppers, small diced
1 small Sweet Onion, like a Vidalia, small diced
1/4 cup Celery, thinly sliced
1 T Capers
3 cloves Garlic, finely chopped
A Healthy Handful Each of Fresh Parsley, Oregano, Basil, chopped
1 tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1 cup White Balsamic Vinegar
Sea Salt and Fresh Pepper to taste
1+ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Combine all of the ingredients except olive oil. Place in large glass bowl and cover with the olive oil. Let marinate for a few days at least, a week at best. This stuff lasts forever if you keep it covered.

Note: Home roasted peppers are really easy to do and make you feel like a culinary know it all.
Place whole peppers on burner over an open flame (do i need to qualify that you must use a gas fired stove to roast at home? electric won't cut it). Roast, rotating frequently using long handled tongs, until charred but not burned to a crisp. Place in a bowl, cover with saran (this will allow the skins to steam away from the meat of the pepper) and refrigerate until cool. Remove all of the charred skin, stem and seeds using a little running water, but only if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.

The Sammy Itself Part:
Muffuletta purists agree that the bread has to be just right. Classically, it should be a 10 inch round Italian loaf topped with sesame seeds, not too chewy, not too crusty, but i like crusty and chewy so go figure. I say any great crusty loaf would work. Dare I say further, it needn't even be round?!!! I do dare say such. I've made muffs with a really good ciabatta and while there wasn't a lot of bread meat inside to soak up the olive salad juices, it was quite tasty.

Then there are the meats. The sandwich needs at least a pound of great, thinly sliced Italian meats: Rosemary Ham, Salami, Mortadella, Capicola, PEPPERONI and cheeses: Provolone and Mozzarella are standards. I say find your favorite combo and run with it.

To Compose the Sammy:
Cut the bread in half horizontally. Douse both the bottom and top layers of bread with some of the olive salad juice. Layer, alternately, the meats and cheeses. Top with a heaping heap of olive salad. Press bread top onto sammy. Cut into desired number of slices.

Eat.
Afterwards, eat some candy, tic tacs preferably, another of Charlie's favorites.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CHARLIE.
I LOVE YOU.
auntie lola