Sunday, February 28, 2010

for yucks and aesthetics

many years ago, the exact number of which i refuse to reveal,

my favorite song was a little beatles ditty called I'm Only Sleeping.

i was hoping to embed the song here, but alas, Beatles music is

not only not available to steal on line (sorry mom), it can't even be bought!


the refrain goes something like this:

please don't wake me,

no don't shake me,

leave me where i am,

i'm only sleeping.

ahh. sweet memories.



at any rate, i still love to sleep,

but what i love almost as much is what comes after.

breakfast.


in the dinosaur days, breakfast was a cup of hot tea with honey and a Marlboro, brought to me, in bed, by my friend paddington,

with the song playing in the background.


i’ve long since ditched the cigs.

the song, until this morning, was a distant memory.

there's been no breakfast in bed since my boys served me cheerio’s

for mother’s day, 1995, hours after they had poured the milk.

sweet things.

but, a cup of tea (earl grey now) is still the way I love to start my day.


and on occasion, these things replace the nicotine.



French Omelet

Makes one for one or one for one to share, if they like.


Ingredients:


2 or 3 eggs

some butter

Sea salt

stuff to stuff your omelet


Note: Ideally, you want to use a non stick pan. It just helps, a lot.


For the Omelet: Crack eggs in a small bowl. Whisk with a fork until blended. Add a small splash of water and some salt to the eggs. (I don't like pepper in or on my eggs...sorry mom...but feel free to ruin them with a grind or two now, if you must)

Melt some butter in the pan over medium heat. When the butter begins to just barely sizzle, add the eggs. Let the eggs set a moment...they will start to cook along the edges. At this point, using a rubber spatula, start to push the cooked edges toward the center of the pan, tilting the pan slightly at the same time to allow the runny uncooked eggs to replace the cooked egg edges. Continue this pushing/tilting technique until most of the egg mixture is cooked. Now, add your prepared filling. To finish, roll the omelet out of pan and onto a warm plate by holding the pan atilt over the plate, folding the top third of the omelet over the middle third using your spatula, and continuing by rolling the folded two thirds over the last bit of omelet while simultaneously sliding it onto the plate. Once omelet is safely on the plate, give it a final rub on it's ridge with a stick of butter and perhaps, a dusting of leftover shredded cheese for yucks and aesthetics. It sounds tricky, and actually, it is tricky to roll an omelet. It takes a lot of practice, but the thing to remember is the rolling/folding process should ultimately become one fluid motion. And remember this, too...all in, a perfect omelet takes just a few minutes. If you have slaved over the omelet over the stove for over 5 minutes, throw it out and start again.


Note: As with so many recipes, there are countless filling variations. A classic french omelet is filled simply with shredded gruyere and a mixture of fresh herbs, but you should feel free to be as adventurous as your fridge and pantry allow.


One more note: "French" omelets are ALWAYS slightly runny on the inside (the residual heat of the omelet will continue to cook the eggs without OVERcooking them), rolled/tri-folded and NEVER BROWN!!!!



Sweet and Savory Breakfast Bread Puddings

Makes a large ceramic dish full, enough for at least 10.


Ingredients:


2 loaves of dense, chewy "real" bread (for savory or sweet) or challah (for sweet only), cubed

1 qt heavy cream

1/2 qt half and half

12 eggs

1 stick butter, melted

(1-2 cups sugar plus 2 T vanilla if sweet or dessert bread pudding)

S.P.


Make the bread pudding: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush ovenproof ceramic dish with some of the melted butter. Whisk together the custard ingredients in large bowl. Toss with the bread cubes, butter and garnish. Mix well. Press into ceramic dish, wrap first with saran (keeps in the moisture), then cover with tin foil. Bake for about an hour, removing saran and tin foil for the last 10 or 15 minutes of cook time. Serve hot.


Some Tried and True Savory Garnish Options:

One.

1 lb rosemary ham, julienned

2 cups gruyere, grated

1 cup gorg, crumbled

a couple of sprigs worth of fresh rosemary, chopped.


Two.

8 oz goat cheese

2 cups provolone, grated

2 cups artichoke hearts, diced

1/2 cup sundried tomatoes, julienne

1 cup bacon, prosciutto or pancetta, diced

a couple of twigs of fresh thyme.

(blanched broccoli rabe would be nice in here, too or instead of something)


Three.

1 lb chorizo, casing removed, crumbled

1 cup poblano peppers, roasted and diced

1 cup red onion, roasted

1/4 c roasted garlic, mashed

3 cups manchego, grated


Sweet Garnish Options:


Four.

Zest of 2 lemons

1 1/2 cup brown sugar

2 T vanilla

2 pints of fresh raspberries

challah


Add the zest, brown sugar and vanilla to the egg cream mixture. Let the custard sit for a while...even overnight...to allow the flavors to develop. Toss with challah cubes. Gently fold in raspberries last thing. Bake in buttered dish, covered with saran and tin foil, for about an hour. Dust sweet bread pudding with powdered sugar. Serve hot.


Five.

3 cups fresh peaches, large diced

1 pt fresh blueberries

some peach nectar

a dash of cinnamon


Please feel free to caramelize the peaches before tossing with bread and custard by sauteing them in some butter and brown sugar in the name of oxidation prevention.


Six.

Lots of Chocolate stuff: chips, chunks of brownies, godiva liquer, etc.


Seven.

Caramelized Bananas (see peaches above)

Pecans


Note: These variations may be too sweet for breakfast/brunch. You might be better off saving them for dessert. If you do, you must serve them with this:


Ridiculously Easy Caramel Sauce

Makes about a cup


1 stick butter

1 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup heavy cream


Make the sauce: Melt the butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in brown sugar and cream until well blended. Done. Use warm.

Refrigerate whatever is left...yeah, right.


Note: You may add some booze (think rum, kaluah, bourbon, etc) or reduced nectars (peach, mango) to make the sauce even more ridiculous.




Note: The savory custard base and fillings can easily be used for quiche as well.

Store bought (sorry mom) pie shells make the whole quiche thing remarkably easy.

But just in case you are a pie shell purist:


Pie Doe

Makes 2 Nine inch


3 1/3 cups flour

3T sugar

1/4 lb butter

4 1/2 oz shortening

1/2 cup water.


Make crust: Mix flour and sugar in mixing bowl. Cut in butter and shortening: you can do this in an electric mixer, cuisinart or by hand with your fingers, a pastry cutter, two knives (least favorite of all). Add all of the water all at once. Bring dough together, kneading (if by hand) slightly. Do not overwork! Divide the dough. Roll to about a 1/4 inch thick. (I like to roll my pie dough between two pieces of saran. Works like a dream...don't need to use as much flour and easy as pie to transfer to the pie plate.)

Crimp the edges as you like.


Note: For quiche and other pies requiring a bake period, no need to prebake.


Scones

Makes about a dozen, depending on your scoop size.


2 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 T baking powder

1/2 t salt (may be eliminated, if using salted butter)

1 stick butter, cut into pieces

1 cup buttermilk

Garnish: i sound like a broken record, but anything goes.

i like: candied ginger peach, dried cranberry pecan, apricot almond.

dried fruits work best, fresh fruits alter the moisture of the dough and can be tricky.

add as much as you like...less if you like more biscuit to your scone, more if you like more treats.


Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a mixer, combine the dry stuff. Next, cut in butter pieces. You may need to pulse your mixer on and off to prevent a flour shower. When butter is nicely cut in...mixture should be soft and there should be no palpable chunks of butter in the mix...add the garnish. THEN, fold the buttermilk in by hand until dough just comes together, gathering loose crumbs and tucking them in. Scoop scones onto a parchment lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and bake for approximately 20 minutes or until golden. Scones will sound slightly hollow when bottom is tapped. It's subtle, so move the scone towards your ear...which leaves them conveniently close to your mouth to finish the job, but blow first. For those not so inclined, you'll just have to wait.


Eat.














Sunday, February 21, 2010

small shrimp is not an oxymoron

it's just how we feel sometimes.

i am feeling small this morning,
so thought i would write about shrimp.

i just returned from a week in south carolina.
there is something about the shrimp down there.
it's swept from local waters and is always sweet and crisp,
seemingly no matter how it is prepared, how long it is cooked or
how long it sits under a heat lamp.

(whoops...sorry very famous restaurant on bay street
in Charleston.)

i use local shrimp here, too.
it comes from costco.

here is what i do with it, often or on occasion.


Baked Shrimp in Chipotle Sauce
Makes enough for 4 to pick on before dinner.
Can be doubled, tripled, quadrupled, quintupled, etc.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 lbs U15 shrimp, deveined, shell on (or off)
1/4 cup butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup white wine
1 or 2 chipotles, minced plus 3 T of adobo sauce from can
a couple of dashes of worchestershire
a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme, picked
1 T or so brown sugar
S.P.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Make the Sauce: Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sweat for a minute...do not brown. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for a few minutes to allow flavors to meld. Sauce should thicken just a bit.

Make the Shrimp: Fold prepped shrimp in with sauce and pour into an ovenproof dish. Bake for approximately 11 to 14 minutes, stirring shrimp once to ensure they cook evenly. Roll up your sleeves and dig in.

Have at the ready a crusty sour doe for sauce sopping, a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, preferably from New Zealand and a large roll of paper towels to keep the mess manageable.



Dirty Shrimp with Remoulade Sauce
Makes 2 lbs of shrimp

Ingredients:

2 lbs U15 shrimp, deveined, shell on (or off)

The Rub:
1 stick butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 medium onion, diced
1/4 cup chili powder
1 T cumin
1 t cinnamon
1 t dry thyme
1/4 cup paprika
1/8 cup balsamic vinegar
S.P.

The Sauce:
1/2 cup each mayo and sour cream
1/2 cup pickles, small dice
2 T capers, chopped
zest of 1 and juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
1 T dijon
1 shallot, very small dice
dash or two of tabasco
S.P.

For the Sauce: Combine all ingredients. Taste and adjust seasoning. Let mellow.

For the Shrimp: Cook the shrimp in boiling salted water until just cooked and pink, approximately 2 minutes. Drain and cool under running water. Drain again. Set aside.

For the Rub: Sweat the onion and garlic in butter in a small saute pan. Add the spices and cook on low heat to release their fragrances. Finally, whisk in the balsamic vinegar. Let cool.

To Finish: Here's the thing. These shrimp can be eaten warm or cold. If you decide to eat them warm, toss the just cooked, uncooled but drained shrimp with the just cooked rub and serve. If you prefer to eat them cold/room temp, toss the cooled shrimp with the cooled rub. You can serve then, or refrigerate until some other time to allow the flavors to develop...but please note: the rub, made with butter, can congeal a bit if refrigerated so you may want to allow some time for refrigerated shrimp to come back to room temp before serving.

Another Note: Don't forget the sauce and the PAPER TOWELS!

Shell On Rationale: You may have noticed that I recommend leaving the shell on the shrimp for the two recipes above. The reason is simple. The sauce oozes underneath the shell and in the fins of the tail and bathes the shrimp in absolute deliciousness. These shrimp are succulent which means, in this case, you must suck them to achieve the utmost pleasure. The shell off option is for those uncomfortable with sucking. Fair enough. It's not for everyone.




Lemon Fennel Shrimp Curls with Tarragon Cream
Makes about 60 curls

Ingredients:

Shrimp Mixture:
2 lbs U15 shrimp, peeled and deveined
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 c extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, zested first, then thinly sliced, removing all seeds
4 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped
1 T fennel seed, lightly crushed
1/4 t red pepper flakes
S.P.

Sauce Mixture:
1/2 c each sour cream and mayo
zest and juice of 1 lemon
2-3 sprigs fresh tarragon, chopped
S.P.


For the shrimp: Slice the shrimp as if you were butterflying them open, but cut all the way through. (Your knife blade will be parallel to the cutting board!) Poach the shrimp in boiling, salted, lemon water. Total cook time is barely a minute. The shrimp will curl and turn pink. Drain and cool under cold running water. Drain again. Towel dry to remove as much moisture as possible. Meantime, sweat the garlic for just a minute in a couple of tablespoons of the EVOO to take the bite out of the raw garlic. Let cool. Add all ingredients together in a bowl and allow shrimp to marinate for many hours, preferably overnight. As always, taste and adjust seasoning.

Make the sauce: Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth. Can (should?!) be done the day before for optimal flavor meldage.

Serve shrimp in a mound on a pretty platter garnished simply with a tulip, chive flowers, some nasturtium or any other beautiful flower on hand. Have the sauce on the side for dipping. For those with a fear of touching food with their fingers, offer toothpicks or small cocktail plates and forks, but only as a last resort. Watch them sweat first. It's fun.

Note: We serve this regularly on our catering gigs. If we have any shrimp leftover, which is usually quite rare, it becomes shrimp salad. Pulse the shrimp curls in the cuisinart until chunky and add leftover tarragon sauce. Eat by heaping spoons full or on a sammy. Whichever way...yum.

Eat.

Final notes on the shrimp thing:

First: I am sure these recipes would be equally successful with the shrimp from the southern waters. I just don't have the experience myself. When I visit the south, my sister in law Mimi does all of the cooking. She's whiz bang at it too. Maybe if I ask nicely, she will share her Shrimp and Grits with Tasso Gravy recipe. But be warned...if she does, it means 1000 extra miles on the treadmill. Guaranteed.

Lastly: I have other shrimp recipes I'd like to share, but life is calling (actually, a Ganache Coated Donut at Dottie's Diner is calling) so I've got to jump. Maybe a midweek blog is in our future. NO promises. Still have to deal with Taco Boy.
























Sunday, February 14, 2010

Sunday, February 7, 2010

pickles, pepperoni and olives

today is my nephew charlie's 5th birthday.
unfortunately, i missed his birthday party.
ach. mother nature and her wintry charm.

i've been thinking a lot about charlie
on this momentous day and decided today's
recipe should include three of his favorite foods,
aside from candy, of course.

pickles, pepperoni and olives.

one recipe instantly comes to mind which includes all three, sort of.
the muffuletta sammy.
here it is, with a few twists and alterations, to honor my favorite 5 year old.

coincidentally, the super bowl will be played today.
the muffuletta sammy is a quintessential football party eat.

Muffuletta
Feeds 4 pot bellied creatures or 40 who only care for a sliver

Ingredients:

The Olive Salad Part:
1 1/2 cups Pitted Green OLIVES, chopped
1/2 cup Pitted Kalamata OLIVES, chopped
1 cup Cauliflower Florets, blanched
1 cup Half Sour PICKLES, small diced
1/2 cup Home Roasted Red Peppers, small diced
1 small Sweet Onion, like a Vidalia, small diced
1/4 cup Celery, thinly sliced
1 T Capers
3 cloves Garlic, finely chopped
A Healthy Handful Each of Fresh Parsley, Oregano, Basil, chopped
1 tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1 cup White Balsamic Vinegar
Sea Salt and Fresh Pepper to taste
1+ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Combine all of the ingredients except olive oil. Place in large glass bowl and cover with the olive oil. Let marinate for a few days at least, a week at best. This stuff lasts forever if you keep it covered.

Note: Home roasted peppers are really easy to do and make you feel like a culinary know it all.
Place whole peppers on burner over an open flame (do i need to qualify that you must use a gas fired stove to roast at home? electric won't cut it). Roast, rotating frequently using long handled tongs, until charred but not burned to a crisp. Place in a bowl, cover with saran (this will allow the skins to steam away from the meat of the pepper) and refrigerate until cool. Remove all of the charred skin, stem and seeds using a little running water, but only if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.

The Sammy Itself Part:
Muffuletta purists agree that the bread has to be just right. Classically, it should be a 10 inch round Italian loaf topped with sesame seeds, not too chewy, not too crusty, but i like crusty and chewy so go figure. I say any great crusty loaf would work. Dare I say further, it needn't even be round?!!! I do dare say such. I've made muffs with a really good ciabatta and while there wasn't a lot of bread meat inside to soak up the olive salad juices, it was quite tasty.

Then there are the meats. The sandwich needs at least a pound of great, thinly sliced Italian meats: Rosemary Ham, Salami, Mortadella, Capicola, PEPPERONI and cheeses: Provolone and Mozzarella are standards. I say find your favorite combo and run with it.

To Compose the Sammy:
Cut the bread in half horizontally. Douse both the bottom and top layers of bread with some of the olive salad juice. Layer, alternately, the meats and cheeses. Top with a heaping heap of olive salad. Press bread top onto sammy. Cut into desired number of slices.

Eat.
Afterwards, eat some candy, tic tacs preferably, another of Charlie's favorites.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CHARLIE.
I LOVE YOU.
auntie lola
 
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